My first solo travel was to Pondicherry in October 2013.
Earlier, whenever I have been a solo traveller, it was mostly because of my job.
Even then, I would find friends or acquaintances wherever I went. Travelling,
for me, was a thing to do with people. This way I bonded (or unbonded) with
many friends. Since I had moved into a new job at the end of 2012, I could not
take time off in the initial months to travel. By the end of 2013, the travel
bug was biting me hard, no one was available to keep me company and it was
Durga Puja – a time all Bengalis feel festive, so I simply booked a trip to
Pondicherry and went.
 |
| Sunset in Pondicherry |
I chose Pondicherry for its spiritual connection. I was also
curious about its French-ness. I visited Pondicherry (or Puducherry) with my
parents many years ago – in mid-1990s - so I somewhat knew what to expect. I
wondered whether I would see the place with different eyes almost 20 years
after my first visit.
A solo Indian women traveller is still a rare though growing
species. Especially in travels within India. I have learnt of many women indulging
in this ‘highly unusual activity’ since my first solo travel. I faced no
problems in this trip – perhaps would have been nicer to have some friends
around to let hair down in the evenings. But at least I was the mistress of my
own will, exploring at my own pace and time.
After checking in my heritage hotel (La Maison Toumele - the Tamil Mansion, 5 kms from the
airport), I went out. My hotel was at the edge of the Tamil town, next to the
White town. In the French time (Pondicherry was a French outpost till 1954),
the area was occupied by the Tamil population, whereas the French lived in the
White town - along the sea. Predictably, the architecture in the White town is rather
European, while the Tamil town has traditional Tamil style houses. The
interesting things to see are mostly in the White town.
 |
| Touching head on Aurobindo Ashram wall |
At the time I was in Pondicherry, a major cyclone (Cyclone
Phailin) was threatening the eastern coastline of India. The cyclone did not
touch the southern part, so Pondicherry was spared. Meanwhile, I was receiving
messages from concerned friends and family about my well-being. (The Orissa
government had done a remarkable task of evacuating people during Cyclone Phailin)
On the second day, I woke up while it was still dark. I
remembered I was in the eastern coast, quickly got dressed and ran to the
seaside with my cameras and lenses. The hotel was quiet – all were sleeping.
The security guard woke up as I approached the inner gate and unlocked the
doors for me. There were a few people on the streets but the seaside was filled
with morning walkers and sunrise watchers. The sea was a 10 minute walk from my
hotel. It was cloudy. We had to wait to spot the sun. By the time we managed to
steal a glance of it, the sun was well above the horizon. I returned to the
hotel to have breakfast and fell asleep soon after.
 |
| Lounging about in Auroville |
Waking up a few hours later, I called for a taxi and went on a
visit to Auroville. Auroville is an experimental township founded by Sri
Aurobindo Society in 1968, 10 kilometers from Pondicherry. Residents to not own
any land in the township and engage in different occupations and activities to contribute
to the township. Auroville was not very different from what I remembered. Except
that Matri Mandir (Matri=Mother, Mandir=temple) was being built when I visited in
1995. Matri Mandir is circular shaped, golden in colour and a spiritual space. I
could not go inside it as I was not organised enough to arrange for a pass (my
niece, who studied in Pondicherry, had advised me to get one when I was
planning). Substantial tracts of land in Auroville lie empty. One wonders its
success at establishing an alternative way of life. I had a thought it would be
a great place for me to retire and have nowhere else to go! I am sure I could
use my talents to sustain myself.
I had lunch in a café in Auroville, run by French nationals. The
food was disappointing. In comparison, food in my hotel was excellent. And they
were happy to serve me dishes of my choice. I would order ahead and have been satisfied
with the meals I had there. The evening was spent in Pondicherry exploring a
church, two temples and shops. Like in the first evening, I paid a visit to
Aurobindo Ashram to sit for a while.
 |
| Sunsrise in Pondicherry |
On the third day, I would leave for Mumbai. But not before
exploring some more. As in the second day, I ran to catch the sunrise early in the
morning. The experience was better than the day before. It was less cloudy and
more dramatic. As I sat there watching the view, it occurred to me after a long
time I heard a sea roaring. The Arabian Sea in Mumbai is rather laid back, does
not make much noise when its waves splash on its shores. The Bay of Bengal in
Pondicherry is a roaring, self-conscious entity: it wants to make its presence
felt. Like in many places of Bombay, the seaside in Pondicherry is lined with
stones and boulders to prevent land erosion. The dam takes away some bit of fun
of being next to the sea but it had a different charm. Waves spraying on
boulders are a sight worth watching.
 |
| Soaking in the ambience |
It was time to say good-bye to Pondicherry: I packed my bags and
left for the airport. I was filled with peace and confidence. I knew I would go
on a solo trip again.
July 2014, Mumbai
