Colours and Surprises - North Bengal Village Fair

I knew it would be a village fair but wasn’t quite sure what to expect.

Dusty fields

 Would there be a big ground lined by stalls at its edges with a vast near-empty space in the middle and a big wheel and other rides in one corner?

Or would it be a small area packed with people, shops and rides where one will be pushed, pulled and compressed?

Next to the Temple

While going there I heard it’s a famous fair in these parts and quite an old one. Since I couldn’t visualise the fair to my satisfaction, I couldn’t really plan my photography. So I decided to go with an open mind – unplanned and ready to be surprised. And boy wasn’t I in for a (pleasant) surprise!




We drove from Jalpaiguri town to Jalpesh Temple, which houses the idol of Lord Jalpeshwar – an incarnation of Shiva. The half-an-hour drive (about 10 kilometers) crossed River Teesta, fields and villages. Though the roads are not really wide, since the road surface was good and there was no typical heavy big-city-traffic, the drive was quite nice. The temple is about 5 kilometers from the nearest town – Mainaguri. Every year in February-March, around Shivaratri or the festival of Lord Shiva, a fair is organised next to the temple. Earlier it used to be held for a month and supposedly attracted visitors from North Bengal, Assam, Nepal and Sikkim. These days, the fair is held only for about a fortnight suggesting its declining glory.

Jalpesh Temple

The temple was constructed by a king of Coochbihar Islamic architectural style. Its facade – white and imposing - is remarkably impressive. The fair starts on a piece of land adjacent to the temple. It goes towards a creek, crossing it using a small bamboo bridge and merging with shops and stalls in the main fair ground.

Colourful Fair

The fair was not anything I visualised – the place was bigger, there were more people, more shops and stalls, and more rides than I had imagined. All around me there were different hues of colours, more than what could be seen in a typical big city fair. Women had taken out their best and probably most colourful attires. There were multicoloured toys, wares, food, rides and posters. Though it was dusty, the weather was pleasant. People wrapped their shawls and woolens amidst swirling dusty wind. The combined impact was a dream-like landscape.

Intriguing Faces

The faces of people I saw around me intrigued me. Their features were different from that seen in other parts of Bengal. Most visitors probably came from villages from around. Perhaps their antecedents are linked to the original residents of North Bengal – Cochs and Rajbangshis.  

Nibbles

The few hours I was there, I remained busy taking in the ambience. My companions and I nibbled some jalebis. Soon it was time to head back through a dusty village road.    

© text and photo: Sanchita Chatterjee 2015 

Sound of Silence

Snowing on Holi

‘My small piece of the sky and the sound of silence’ - the words were resonating within me while visiting Tirthan Valley for the third time in a year. The valley is at least a 12-hour journey from Delhi but each time the journey had felt smooth (went in a car twice and a bus once). Could be because of the company (of friends) or charming views on the way or simply my state of mind to enjoy no matter what or a combination of all these.

Tirthan Valley is in Kullu District of Himachal Pradesh - about 544 km from Delhi and 267 km from Chandigarh. Every time I stayed in areas around Banjar – about 58 km from the Kullu town. To reach Tirthan Valley one can drive up or hire a car (from Delhi via Chandigarh-Bilaspur-Mandi). One could also take a Himachal Government or a private bus and get down near Aut. There is a choice of flying till Bhuntar airport of Kullu as well. Cottages and homestays of Tirthan valley usually arrange for pick up from the bus stop or the airport.   

Sunset on Tirthan river

So far Tirthan Valley has managed to escape big herds of tourists, weekend travellers from nearby towns or big cities and backpacker crowds. The valley does attract a decent number of tourists – some of them in search of a peaceful gateway or for Himalayan adventure travel. The valley is in the vicinity of the Great Himalayan National Park and not too far from Jalori Pass (3120 meters high, connects Shimla to Kullu).

The main attraction of the place is its yet-untouched, pristine and bottle-green-and-electric-blue natural beauty. River Tirthan originates in the Great Himalayan National Park and meets with River Parvati at Larji near Banjar (also a popular angling spot). Parvati meets with River Beas at Bhuntar. There are other such rivers in the area with splendid rapids and small waterfalls.

By the River Tirthan

In the first two trips, I stayed in a camp in Village Bhiyar­­ where I thought I could just touch snow-capped mountains by stretching my not-too-long arms. On my very first visit – in March 2012, on the day of Holi – we saw dream-and-fairy-tale like, Himalayan cotton ball-ish snowfall.

The first time was spent relaxing and doing a bit of tour. In the second trip - in May 2012 - a friend and I walked around, up and down a few hills and through pine forests, crossed small waterfalls, talked to villagers and saw the places in and around the camp.

My last stay - for four days - was slightly different. It felt like I was perched on nature’s lap with nothing to protect me from cold, wind or rain. And yet I never felt unprotected. As if the spectacular and serene ambience was also acting as a cushion around me. May be it was what they call a divine experience. Or may be because I was so comfortable by then that I had moved to a place in my mind where I perceived things differently.

Villagers in Bhiyar

That time – in September 2012 - I stayed in a cottage next to River Tirthan, near Gosaini – about 16 km from Banjar. To wake up in the morning to the sound of the river splashing on boulders and stones, while it negotiates its way to its confluence through twists and turns of mountain ranges on its either side, is kind of other-worldly. Blending with the sound of water were bird songs and rustling of leaves when mountain breeze passed through Alpine jungles. Missing from all this was mechanical noise of automobiles and factories or even loud human voices. However, it did not escape my thoughts that the dearth of industries in the area is not so positive as it indicated general economic backwardness of the people.

Hanging out in Himalayan meadows

While on my way back from Tirthan Valley that time, as layers of hilly ranges, alpine forests and Himalayan villages were giving way to bigger villages and towns of the plains, I was wondering whether I would have difficulties adjusting to ‘normal civilisation’. As if a special bondage to the life I had in the valley had formed. As Delhi was approaching, though, I was gradually filled with a sense of peace. I had a strong feeling I would be back in a few months to ‘drink the tonic’ of the valley life again.

I have moved to Mumbai since then and I am longing again for another touch of the green-and-blue silence and the ‘tonic’.

April 2013

Mumbai

The article was published in the Statesman, 23 July 2013: http://thestatesman.net/news/6823-divine-experience.html?page=1

Photo and Text: Sanchita C 2014

Soloing in Pondicherry

My first solo travel was to Pondicherry in October 2013. Earlier, whenever I have been a solo traveller, it was mostly because of my job. Even then, I would find friends or acquaintances wherever I went. Travelling, for me, was a thing to do with people. This way I bonded (or unbonded) with many friends. Since I had moved into a new job at the end of 2012, I could not take time off in the initial months to travel. By the end of 2013, the travel bug was biting me hard, no one was available to keep me company and it was Durga Puja – a time all Bengalis feel festive, so I simply booked a trip to Pondicherry and went.

Sunset in Pondicherry

I chose Pondicherry for its spiritual connection. I was also curious about its French-ness. I visited Pondicherry (or Puducherry) with my parents many years ago – in mid-1990s - so I somewhat knew what to expect. I wondered whether I would see the place with different eyes almost 20 years after my first visit.

A solo Indian women traveller is still a rare though growing species. Especially in travels within India. I have learnt of many women indulging in this ‘highly unusual activity’ since my first solo travel. I faced no problems in this trip – perhaps would have been nicer to have some friends around to let hair down in the evenings. But at least I was the mistress of my own will, exploring at my own pace and time.

After checking in my heritage hotel (La Maison Toumele - the Tamil Mansion, 5 kms from the airport), I went out. My hotel was at the edge of the Tamil town, next to the White town. In the French time (Pondicherry was a French outpost till 1954), the area was occupied by the Tamil population, whereas the French lived in the White town - along the sea. Predictably, the architecture in the White town is rather European, while the Tamil town has traditional Tamil style houses. The interesting things to see are mostly in the White town.

Touching head on Aurobindo Ashram wall

I walked around the White town. Streets were not crowded and many people were shuttling in bicycles. I came upon Manakula Vinayagar temple - said to be in existence before French settlers arrived in 1666. An elephant outside the temple was a major attraction as she was blessing passersby. A stone’s throw from the temple is Aurobindo Ashram. I went in and sat in meditation. Sri Aurobindo evolved a new method of spiritual practice - the Integral Yoga.

At the time I was in Pondicherry, a major cyclone (Cyclone Phailin) was threatening the eastern coastline of India. The cyclone did not touch the southern part, so Pondicherry was spared. Meanwhile, I was receiving messages from concerned friends and family about my well-being. (The Orissa government had done a remarkable task of evacuating people during Cyclone Phailin)

On the second day, I woke up while it was still dark. I remembered I was in the eastern coast, quickly got dressed and ran to the seaside with my cameras and lenses. The hotel was quiet – all were sleeping. The security guard woke up as I approached the inner gate and unlocked the doors for me. There were a few people on the streets but the seaside was filled with morning walkers and sunrise watchers. The sea was a 10 minute walk from my hotel. It was cloudy. We had to wait to spot the sun. By the time we managed to steal a glance of it, the sun was well above the horizon. I returned to the hotel to have breakfast and fell asleep soon after.

Lounging about in Auroville

Waking up a few hours later, I called for a taxi and went on a visit to Auroville. Auroville is an experimental township founded by Sri Aurobindo Society in 1968, 10 kilometers from Pondicherry. Residents to not own any land in the township and engage in different occupations and activities to contribute to the township. Auroville was not very different from what I remembered. Except that Matri Mandir (Matri=Mother, Mandir=temple) was being built when I visited in 1995. Matri Mandir is circular shaped, golden in colour and a spiritual space. I could not go inside it as I was not organised enough to arrange for a pass (my niece, who studied in Pondicherry, had advised me to get one when I was planning). Substantial tracts of land in Auroville lie empty. One wonders its success at establishing an alternative way of life. I had a thought it would be a great place for me to retire and have nowhere else to go! I am sure I could use my talents to sustain myself.

I had lunch in a café in Auroville, run by French nationals. The food was disappointing. In comparison, food in my hotel was excellent. And they were happy to serve me dishes of my choice. I would order ahead and have been satisfied with the meals I had there. The evening was spent in Pondicherry exploring a church, two temples and shops. Like in the first evening, I paid a visit to Aurobindo Ashram to sit for a while.

Sunsrise in Pondicherry

On the third day, I would leave for Mumbai. But not before exploring some more. As in the second day, I ran to catch the sunrise early in the morning. The experience was better than the day before. It was less cloudy and more dramatic. As I sat there watching the view, it occurred to me after a long time I heard a sea roaring. The Arabian Sea in Mumbai is rather laid back, does not make much noise when its waves splash on its shores. The Bay of Bengal in Pondicherry is a roaring, self-conscious entity: it wants to make its presence felt. Like in many places of Bombay, the seaside in Pondicherry is lined with stones and boulders to prevent land erosion. The dam takes away some bit of fun of being next to the sea but it had a different charm. Waves spraying on boulders are a sight worth watching.

Soaking in the ambience

As the sun became stronger, I started walking around the White town. In the last two days, I had developed some ideas for photography. After I was reasonably satisfied, I sat in a café, opposite the beautiful and distinctive French consulate by the sea, to have breakfast. The café did not have its full menu on offer as their staff members were on holiday for Dusshera. After breakfast, more photography and a trip to Aurobindo Ashram, I headed back to the hotel.

It was time to say good-bye to Pondicherry: I packed my bags and left for the airport. I was filled with peace and confidence. I knew I would go on a solo trip again. 

July 2014, Mumbai

Text and photo: Sanchita C 2014 

Edge

There is a bouncy ball

inside of me – bouncing

left, right, up and down –

it makes me edgy, dreamy

and twitchy – walking up

and down my living room,

talking incessantly – mostly

to myself, I reach a point

The point divides itself

into three or four paths –

I stop and look – unsure

which way is the right

way or if there is one;

if all is a matter of choice –

how to make it; a grand

old, huge tree next to me

sways with the wind –

it seems to speak to me,

whispers … rather, says words

in an unfamiliar language

and yet there is some thing

I understand in its message

- not fully though; I wait, sit

and listen – only when

I’d decipher, I’ll move on

Verse & photo: © Sanchita C 2014